Spillebout by Serge Deleu
Fashion and Photography, Curator
Fashion & Photography…
what a lovely match! Just like last
year with cinema, the 2008 edition illustrates
the whole links between these two universes.
Then we do not offer just a set of themes
around “Fashion photography”
but more widely we propose to explore
the “connections with the cloth”.
True to its general-interest character,
the programming proposes a wide range
of connections between Fashion and Photography,
presenting pictures from the designers’
world or others much further away, such
as when photographs illustrate our dress
code or ceremonial.
2008 will be marked by
a prestigious partnership with PHOTO
magazine, a reference for many artists,
amateurs as well as professionals. We
will pay a tribute to this magazine
with an exhibition in Tri Postal of
the most beautiful covers by the greatest
photographers and of the greatest amateur
photo contest in the world.
It rocked my first loves with photography
and I am so very happy that Eric Colmet
Dâage hosts today the Transphotographiques
in its pages.
We renew with the tradition
by greeting a guest of honour who is
the highlight of the festival. Who but
Karl Lagerfeld could embody these two
universes, Fashion and Photography?
He certainly is a leading light in the
world of Fashion. But if everyone knows
his work as a designer, he is little
known by the general public as a photographer.
With a substantial exhibition, on almost
two levels in Tri Postal, it’s
a lot of his intimacy that we share
with Karl Lagerfeld, years of collaboration
with a top model, Brad Kroenig, and
a designer, gone behind the lens.
We open a more historical
chapter in Maison de la Photographie
with a series of 20 pictures, loaned
by Gallery Baudoin Lebon, of a photographer
who is considered as the first Fashion
photographer, Baron Adolphe de Meyer.
In the 20’s he worked with prestigious
magazines, still famous nowadays, such
as Vanity Fair or Vogue. These magazines
have always been on the side of the
photographical reproduction of the designers
creations, which prove that Fashion
and Photography are linked tight.
For over 10 years, Peter
Knapp was the Art Director of the weekly
magazine ELLE. Then, more than a photographer,
he presents us his vision of an “A.D.”
through this exhibition in Colysée,
Maison Folie of Lambersart. Twenty years
of his work, from the 60’s to
the 80’s, are exhibited here.
Other parts of the festival’s
programming are reflected in these photos,
for instance that Peter Knapp series
on Karl Lagerfeld’s couture.
One more vision, particularly
strong and poetic: the American photographer‘s,
This large exhibition is offered by
Jean-Luc Monterosso and is the first
retrospective since the photographer
died 8 years ago.
As a matter of interest, before he died
David Seidner has donated the greatest
part of his work to the Maison Européenne
de la Photographie, and Jean-Luc Monterosso,
its director, wished since then to pay
him a tribute. Now, with this retrospective
shown in Palais des Beaux-Arts in Lille,
and these series of Fashion photos,
nudes, portraits and historicals, fruit
of years of association with Yves Saint-Laurent
and Pierre Bergé, it’s
Jeanloup Sieff is worshiped
by the world of Fashion, famous for
his shocking pictures, and particularly
Yves Saint-Laurent’s nude. “64+4”,
suggested by Barbara Rix-Sieff and Valerie
Servant, presents unreleased pictures
of the photographer in which lies his
genius for approaching Fashion photography.
We give Gallery Baudoin
Lebon Carte Blanche and they present
the exhibition “Réflecteur
– le sujet devient auteur d’image”.
Former models become photographers deliver
their very personal and original vision
of picture, honed by their own background.
offers its walls to the digital pictures
rewarded by the Arcimboldo prize. Picturing
the first ten years of life of this
visionary prize, one of the first ever
to value the digital creation, this
retrospective allows us to discover
or rediscover the inventiveness of the
prize-winners, some famous – Orlan,
Catherine Ikam -, others still young
The conclave room of
Palais Rihour hosts an unreleased work
of Charles Fréger, “Hereros”.
We are far from what we call Fashion
photography here, and there was no evidence
his work should be part of this very
edition. Nevertheless, after the “Uniforme”
series, “Hereros” confirms
how and how much cultural or social
communities dress, get themselves up
and choose to use clothes as a way to
identify oneself or to play a part.
As we can guess from the models and
the scenery, we are in Namibia. But
here clothes display their identities,
their sufferings or their history. Then
it seems like it is German officers
of the early 20th century or Scottish
“Royal Highlanders” that
appears to us.
With the three Tereza
Vlckovà series, exhibited at
Hôtel de Région, Tri Postal
and Colysée of Lambersart, we
are on the borderline between real Fashion
works, destined to a magazine and used
to presents a designer’s work,
and the work as an auteur. The “Little
Garden” series reveals a young
Czech designer’s creation Ondrej
Adamek, whereas the “Twin”
series is one of Tereza’s particularly
accomplished and personal works. She
uses brilliantly the new digital technologies,
retouching colours and discarding useless
Czech Fashion photography, as Vladimir
Birgus says, was for a long time almost
inexistent, most of the articles and
photos in the press were actually taken
from French, British, Italian or American
press. These wonderful series of Tereza
Vlckovà and designer Ondrej Adamek
are a beautiful sample of the new Prague
creativeness, published in progressive
magazines like Blok.
Tereza Vlckovà has recently received
best young female photographer award
at Prague Biennale.
Just like in 2007 with
cinema, many photographers set up their
photos to tell stories.
Clothe or costume, disguise, cloth,
is widely used by Elene Usdin, for Fashion
magazine or to promote Opera du Rhin.
Sometimes she creates the costumes herself,
as her imagination and dreams took her.
The “Magic Fillette” series
is exhibited at Galerie Le Carré.
This is the “young creative Fashion
photography”, admirably out of
step with our usual idea of what is
Speaking about “Creative
Fashion” we had to invite Eugenio
Recuenco. As Palais des Beaux-Arts of
Lille is about to celebrate Goya’s
“Whims”, we ought to exhibit
the works of one of his true heir, inspired
by Spanish painting and advancing towards
moving pictures. Some series of his
mysterious and masterly chiaroscuro
as well as some of his short movies
are exhibited at Tri Postal in Lille.
Sabine Pigalle also refers
to painting, notably her series «
Le 6ème jour » shown at
St Maurice church.
As Usdin, she makes a great deal of
costume and mise-en-scene.
Her other work in Tri Postal illustrates
the anthropomorphic relationships between
mankind and animal.
As Vlckovà, Sabine Pigalle shares
with us her very personal view of Twins,
twins like man and animal both transforming
itself according to some fashion phenomenon.
The Polish artist Ewa
Lowzyl, like Tereza Vlckovà,
embodies revenge: the one of the young
creation from former communist bloc
on the lack of creativity and originality
of the previous years. Also like Tereza
Vlckovà, Ewa Lowzyl uses felicitously
the digital tool to transform her models,
or fill out her (our) interrogations.
Is my body really a body?
These altered bodies
from Ewa Lowzyl are reminiscent of most
of Joel Peter Witkin, shown in 2003
in Cathedrale de la Treille in Lille.
We seized the opportunity to invite
Joel Peter Witkin, who’s not originally
a Fashion photographer either. But he
put on its clothes for a special series
for New York Times in which he looks
at Fashion with his outside view.
Young photographers Julien
Claessens and Laurent Julliand reveal,
each one in its own way, a relevant
black and white look on the backstage
of Fashion shows. The first one is exhibited
in Tri Postal of Lille, the second one
in Quai 26 in Roubaix.
After French, Czech,
American, Spanish, Polish, we expand
our invitation to young European creation
to the Italian photographer Francesca
Bertolini. This exhibition is for lovers
of beautiful black and white print who
can discover there an auteur work, far
from Fashion photography, but full of
the memory of a place that made Fashion
what it is. Here Max Mara headquarters
after moving offices in a more modern
place. Oh so full of melancholy pictures,
such melancholy that is so often told
in black and white by photographers.
It is very interesting
to compare that series with Olivia Gay’s
work, presented in Condition Publique
Indeed, on the other hand, Olivia Gay’s
work is devoted to a very lively place,
the headquarters of the Roubaix firm
La Redoute; a place that is part of
what is Fashion today, a place full
of the history of mail order selling
and of cloth in Nord Pas-de-Calais.
With La Redoute for curator, this exhibition
also presents other photographers who
made the most emblematic pages of the
catalogue, like Dominique Isserman or
Mail order selling is associated with
the territory of Nord Pas-de-Calais
and has always called upon the service
of Fashion photographer.
Such is the case of Joseph Chiaramonte
who was commissioned by many of those
Joseph, who is the symbol of our regional
creativeness, is also the originator
of Sight magazine, presented in Tri
He also presents a series of seven photographs
Two group exhibitions
end the 2008 programming. The first
one, called “La ville et la modernité,
la jeune fille dans la ville”
is a proposition by agnès b.
and will be presented in Jardin de Mode
in the South of Lille. Koudelka, Dityvon,
Riboud or Doisneau are some of the photographers
The second exhibition
is devoted to the wonderful art collection
of Musée des beaux-arts et de
la dentelle of Calais. After FRAC in
2007, we carry on our invitation to
the regional cultural institutions.
Discover or rediscover here the works,
most of them commissioned by the Musée,
of Nancy Wilson-Pajic, Valerie Belin,
Pierre et Gilles, Man Ray, Sam Levin
or Pierre Molinier
Finally let’s go
and see in Lille the exhibitions of
Henrike Stahl, Victor Manuel Fernandez
and the group exhibition by Galerie
Hollevout ; and in Roubaix, Frédéric
Cornu, as well as the exhibitions of
Matej Andra Vogincic & Vuk
Cosic and of Xavier Alphand & Françoise
lush edition may not have been without
the support of the artists, curators,
galleries and partners. Among the most
faithful partners, we would like to
give special thanks to our top partners,
the Region of Nord Pas-de-Calais and
the City of Lille. We’d also like
to say our gratitude to PHOTO magazine
that will promote our project, and thus
the whole Region, far beyond our borders.